My life in Abidjan

Hi, all

Here is a visual diary of my stay in Abidjan. I’m settling in quite nicely, despite my broken French and the scorching tropical heat! Thank God for helpful colleagues and air conditioned apartments.

Thanks, also, to all of you for encouraging me, and doing everything to ensure that I got on that flight!

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My arrival in Ghana, around midnight SA time on March 29/30. I was almost more excited about this stop (given the Maya Angelou connection) than my final destination.

 

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Morning after my arrival in Ghana, on the hotel veranda. 

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The view from my room in Ghana. This pic from veranda though. 

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Finally in Abidjan! 

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My room at the Grand Hotel overlooked the lagoon. 

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Morning coffee at the Grand Hotel. I think this was day three. 

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April 1. First day of work. 

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View from one of the windows at the office. Which is really a complex. 

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Waiting for showtime at the Mo Ibrahim Governance Weekend, held at Hotel Ivoire in Cocody, about 10 minutes from Plateau, where I stay and where HQ is. April 6. Some interesting sessions, including an interview between businessman Mo Ibrahim and the deputy sec-gen of the UN. Valerie Amos and Ellen Johnson-Sirleaf curated the sessions I attended. Also spotted Bono. And Jay Naidoo & Mamphela Ramphele. 

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Hotel Ivoire is vast. I mean, vast. The ceiling must be 20 metres high. Or something that makes me feel incredibly small. The swimming pool is the size of a lake. 

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The Sunday post-Mo Ibrahim. I decided to go for a walk in the unearthly heat, in search of cigarettes and food. I swiftly turned around and returned to my room. 

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My current residence has quite an extensive menu. Of various portions of chicken. 

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The local brew. The only Amstel I’ve spotted is flavoured and non-alcoholic. Non-starter, obvs. 

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One of the dishes on offer at my welcome lunch at a colleague’s house. A lovely and copious spread of Ghanaian food. This plate consists of jollof rice, fried/grilled plantain and home-made tomato sauce. Unfortunately, the picture falls short. 

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Amba (the hostess) with colleague Wilfried and his wife. 

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Mes collègues… Seven nationalities in one pic. What a nice bunch. Thankfully Cecilia (in front) volunteered to take this selfie. April 13. 

Someone told us we don’t belong

Someone told us we don’t belong. So here we are. Unsent. Unbidden. A slovenly guest. Crashing an immaculate ball. Obscene. It’s like the first blow. Irrevocable. Irrevocable. Irrevocable. After that you will always be an abuse survivor. You can never go back. You will always bear that label. A camel through the eye of a needle? Try reentering the womb… So here we are. Rejection survivors. Fatherless.

Askroestertjie

Eendag was daar gewees ‘n meisie met die naam van Askroestertjie. Actually was haar naam Ashley of Aston of so iets, maar niemand kon haar naam onthou nie…
Wie se vir jou hulle kan nie haar naam onthou nie? Hulle kan so goed haar naam onthou. Hulle wil net vir haar afkraak. Dis hoekom hulle haar daai lelike naam noem.
Kyk hier. Vertel jy die storie of vertel ek die storie? Anyway, soos ek besig was om julle te vertel, almal het haar genoem Askroestertjie. En julle kan mos dink hoekom. Haar hare het nie so lekker gelyk nie. En, kyk, baie mense het kroes hare. Maar haar bos kop was iets anders. Dit was daai stywe Boesman korrels. Niks ge-relaxer en olies en goed kon daai hare tame nie. Jy sal jou moer afbetaal aan dure, dure Organics! Haar ma’t al ‘n paar kappe op daai kop gebreek.
So, ja. Arme Askroestertjie. Dit was erg genoeg dat haar hare so stram was. Nou is sy nog die enigste een in haar familie met so ‘n bossiekop. Haar ma, haar susters, almal, het mooi hare. Nou nie genuine genuines nie, maar darem ‘n draad wat jy lekker jou hand kan op hou.
En hier steek arme Askroestertjie uit. Jy sal sien op familie photos dra sy al ewig ‘n hoed of iets. Op sommige photos het hulle evens vir die arme kind ‘n pryk opgesit. En toe’s sy nog klein ook, nog ‘n meisiekind, seker so ses, sewe.
Ek het al baie gewonder hoe die Aspoestertjie kind in die familie met die mooi hare opgeeindig het. Die ma of die pa moes seker erens ‘n glipsie gemaak het, verstaan jy wat ek bedoel?
Hai, shame. En hulle was sulke nice mense. Hulle’t nie so ‘n eye-sore verdien nie. En sy was ook nie so afskuwelik nie. Dis maar net, sy’t afgesteek by die res van die familie. En haar ma Patricia wou natuurlik niks met die arme klapperkop te doen wees nie. Sy’t die arme meisiekind so afgeskeep, gemaak of sy nie bestaan nie. Al haar aandag was op die ander twee meisiekinders.
As mense haar in die pad sien en vra, “Is dit ook jou meisietjie? Sy word nou mooi groot. Tog te oulik.” Dan se sy wragtiewaar, “Nee, is die bediende se klimeidjie. Uh, sy is nogal oulik vir so ‘n staalwolkoppie.” En dan ke-ke-ke sy kliphard. Maar almal weet tog dis nie waar nie. En dan moet jy sien hoe lyk die drie kindertjies teen mekaar. Agnetha en Anthea — dis nou die ander twee meisies — blink van die Vaseline, met hulle hare mooi gevleg met sulke groot ribbons wat vasgemaak is in net so ‘n moerse struk. Met matching rokkies en Bobby socks. Meanwhile lyk die ou Askoestertjie so vaal en afgeskeep. Lyk sy dra hand-me-downs van ‘n oorle’ antie.
As dit nie vir haar pa Edward was nie, het die arme kind seker kaal geloop en honger gelei. Rerig. Dis hoe haar ma die arme skepsel afgeskeep het. Dis maar Edward wat altyd probeer het om die arme kind deel van die familie te maak. Maar toe hy dood is, toe is Patricia eers so stief met Askroestertjie.
Die social workers was gereeld by nommer 23 om te kyk wat daar aangaan, want die kind het gedurig blou merke opgedoen, dan report haar juffrou die familie. Maar elke keer praat Patricia net mooi die mense se koppe om. Kyk, hulle kan mos sien haar huis is skoon en netjies agtermekaar. Dis mos nou nie wat mens verwag van ‘n abusive huishouding nie. Daar’s niks ma en pa wat skel nie. Mooi, ordentlik lyk haar plekkie.
Sy’t eendag finally weggehardloop, Aspoestertjie. Want toe kon sy darem nie meer die abuse vat nie. Haar twee susters was al net so erg soos die ma, wat baie male sommer die kind uit die skool gehou het om te help met skoonmaak. Kan jy dit glo? Ja, soms was hulle in die middel van eksamen, dan moes Aspoestertjie uit die skool bly om haar ma te help, want daar’s een of ander kerk function waarvoor sy moet koek bak of iets.
En sy was mos lief om te show. Ja, nee. Mens sou nie se sy bly maar in ‘n eenvoudige ou council huisie nie. Sy’t altyd geblink as sy af in die pad stap, dik van die make-up, met lang rooi naels en lipstiek en vol jewellery. Sy’t gekling-kling soos die klokke van Jerusalem as sy af in die pad kom van al die necklaces en goue bangles.
Maar eendag, eendag, toe’t arme Askroestertjie net mooi genoeg gehad. Sy was seker so vyftien, sestien. Sy’t by een van haar pa se susters gaan skuiling soek, maar hulle’t haar seker net so vir ses maande of wat herberg gegee, toe’s die arme kind weer op die straat. Hulle was seker te op van nog ‘n bek oophou. En dit nog ‘n skepsel was soos ‘n dier opgetree het, want haar ma’t nooit die tyd gehad om haar mooi te leer nie. Ek hoor haar antie het vir Askroestertjie telke male gestuur om werk te gaan soek, maar die arme kind kon nie eens ‘n eenvoudige cashier job by Shoprite kry nie, want sy kon skaars tel. Dis waar. Haar ma’t haar so baie uit die skool gehou, die kind kon nie eens mooi tel nie. Imagine.
Ja, toe’s sy maar weer op die straat. Nou nog. Na al die jare loop en swerwe Aspoestertjie so. Sy’s nou basically ‘n bergie. Time and again kom klop sy nog aan haar ma se deur as sy desperate is vir iets om te eet. Dan gee Patricia darem vir haar iets. Maar die kind moet op die stoep wag terwyl sy ‘n bord kos of iets binne die huis gaan haal. Soos ‘n hond. En dan gee sy dit vir haar, maar sy se kliphard, dat die neighbours moet hoor: “De, meisie. Dis al wat ek het.” Kamma like die meisie is nou ‘n stranger vir wie sy maar net kos gee uit barmhartigheid. Maar ons ken haar baie goed. Ons kinders het dan saam grootgeword, saam by die parkie gespeel na skool en saam springtou in die pad gespeel. Nee, ons ken vir Aspoestertjie.
Haar naam is eintlik Astrid!
Astrid, ja. Reg genoeg. Haar naam was Astrid.

The missing poet

Last seen wearing a green jersey with crew neck and golden trim, frayed edges
A straw hat
With light-blue jeans, gashed at the knees
Barefoot
Answers to: Kykhie, Meisie, Dinges, Lekkedjy
Anyone with information, please contact the Bureau of Missing Persons 012 393 1000

An ode to impecunity

Oh how you squelch desire
squeeze its throat until it yields in defeat
how you nurture discipline
weed the gardens of excess
and harvest humour, humility, compassion
a clear, crystal gaze

Super sale: reblogs

Hi guys, Because the situation is rather desperate, I’ve decided to host a super sale on my e-store. Reblogs. Only $9.99. On sale from $35. Reblog – $9.99 (on sale from $35)  – Do you have a WordPr…

Source: Super sale: reblogs

Please, don’t ask me to cut my hair…

My hair is nappy. My lips are too big. My teeth are too big. My nose is too big. This was the constant message I received as a child. At home, at school, in my neighbourhood. Very Pecola Breedlove. Except that I was also fed constant reinforcement about my brilliance and cuteness and sweetness and specialness. Quite the paradox, right? I think that’s what Wanneburg means in German. It’s in our DNA or something. Perhaps that’s why, despite all the things that should have been inhibitors – Cape Flats birth, working class etc etc – I’ve always charted my own course, more or less. When I was old enough and bold enough, I started asserting the right to grow my hair into a wild bush that not even I could tame. I had spent too much time being made to feel ashamed of my physical features and my hair was the only one I could somewhat control. It’s probably as Steve Biko as I’ll ever be. Hence and therefore, as I approach my fourth decade and my hair abandons me, I insist on growing it for as long as I can and as long as I can.

Coloured by Race: Newsrooms with a View

The media are their own worst enemy. For all their access to information, they seem intent on burying their heads in the sand. The consequences are bound to be disastrous, especially in a young democracy such as ours, where a thriving Fourth Estate is essential, now more than ever.
So, why have South African media been so loathe to respond meaningfully to change? The answer seems obvious. But that’s not the most important question to be asking. We should also be investigating what kind of response is necessary.
It all boils down to that dreaded “t” word.
Read on to find out why we must – all of us – become more insistent upon and work actively towards transformation; why transformation is vital; why I believe it hasn’t happened and why it’s more than a nice-to-have.
The decline of the media is at least twice as old my 15-year career in this industry; yet only in the past five years or so have I seen an awakening to the fact that things are not as they should be and may never well be.
Elsewhere in the world this may have been due an innate hubris among this cohort. Anyone who has known a journalist for 15 minutes, much less 15 years, can attest to this: they seem to possess a gene that separates them from most people. Several years ago I heard a joke from a veteran journalist: “There’s a civil war in Ivory Coast. What are the markets doing?”
In other words, for decades this industry has operated on an elitism that put its participants on a pedestal. News consumers may never have trusted journalists, or everything they say, but for the longest time they had very little choice but to. Journalists had the platform; they were the sole intermediaries between power and “the people”.
That has all changed, of course, as the internet era increasingly democratises access to and distribution of information; it may not be pretty, or even desirable, but it is.
In a South African context, of course, and in countries similar to ours, there are additional reasons for this late awakening.
Until recently media control in this country has rested almost solely in the hands of a small, privileged group. The transition to democracy, however, heralded a new era in power relations: far more freedom of expression in many senses but also a new, and perhaps far more complex, antagonism between the media and the political establishment.
That aside, I could relate countless personal stories that illustrate how transformation has missed the media industry.
Before I do that, I will cite more public examples of transformation gone awry. The most recent is the stand-off between employees of private broadcaster eNCA/etv and management, who had purportedly refused to recognise a labour union within the company. Management have also been accused of firing a labour representative for raising this and other grievances – which the company vehemently denies. It says it dismissed him for “misconduct, defamation and publishing untruth (sic)”.
The non-recognition of a labour union is bad enough, especially given the worker roots of the company. But what about the fact that the management made no attempt to persuade us, its viewers, that it was somehow in the right?
There was no attempt to shield the public from the perception that the channel does not care about workers’ rights; if there were, it would have done everything to prevent picketing outside its offices in Hyde Park to protest the rejection of the union.
How are we to believe any of the stock and standard finger-wagging reportage at eNCA or etv when they deem it unnecessary to give their very own workers or the public an adequate explanation for the stand-off, at the heart of which is an issue which is so central to our democracy? They couldn’t even be bothered to treat us to some spin?
What of the broadcaster’s disdainful approach to the SABC? Which, by the way, does have a very active and vocal union. (Disclaimer: I have been employed by both eNCA and SABC) And what of the silence from other media in relation to this story?
One of the issues raised by the union, by the way, was the appointment of a middle-aged white male to a senior management position, which was considered a snub to internal candidates of colour.
Still don’t see how transformation has become a dirty word? Well, that very same male, when questioned about the union’s displeasure, responded that transformation isn’t only about gender and race. That’s easy to say, of course, when your gender or race hasn’t been battered by centuries of exclusion.
Now for my personal anecdotes. I have at various times found myself at odds with managers in this industry, most of them white. For the sake of objectivity, let’s suppose that in some cases I may have been guilty of the offences of which I was accused.
What has galled me, however, was the assumption that, whatever the minor infraction, I would simply cave and admit guilt. “Here, sign this document,” I’ve often been told. It brought to mind the way that the baas in previous years may have instructed his lowly worker to draw an “x” by way of signature in order to collect his meagre wages. My rights and intelligence were never taken into consideration. In some cases, this happened more than once with the same (white) manager.
I can list several other sickening tales. One friend told how she had been forced to sign a warning after objecting to her stories being discussed in Afrikaans during a news meeting. Another colleague of hers had been told something like, “Who’s going to cover the black stories when you leave?”
That’s not even talking about the pay discrepancies between white and non-white workers; the blatant preferential treatment and the undeniable nepotism.
Here’s another example of why we need more diversity in newsrooms, as elsewhere. A senior journalist recently related how two black interns had come running to her for advice. She had just been appointed to her position and it was clear that the cub reporters were desperate for guidance, having largely been left to their own devices by their white bosses.
I have been that intern – thrust into a foreign world where white people’s culture and tastes predominate. (Whereas you may describe someone as “gutsy”, a white editor may prefer “plucky” and tacitly imply that your education/background was somehow less desirable because of this difference in preference)
Neverthless, I could imagine the great relief these interns must have felt; the lifeline my friend must have been to them, given that her life experiences were so much closer to theirs.
“What would have happened to these bright young people if it weren’t for my friend?” I wondered. “Would they have stayed in those same stifling positions their whole careers, trapped in stagnation?”
The point of this story is not just about my poor little hurt feelings. The point is that I’m not the only one who’s been affronted in this manner. This is an actual thing, as Americans like to say. It stinks and it decays and it ruins careers and lives and talent. It robs us all of experiencing the most diverse and most stellar journalism we possibly can.
Think of the brilliant journalists in this country today. Mzilikazi wa Afrika, Bureaugard Tromp, Ferial Haffajee… the list is endless. They are who they are because of the heroes and sheroes who mentored them.
There could be other budding wa Afrikas out there but we may never know them. There could be a whole new generation of Tromps or Haffajees in the offing who will never see the light. And that’s simply because at some point they are bound to come up against buffoons such as the ones I have encountered, people who completely take the wind out of their sails and derail them from their destiny.
Here’s the thing. For all their protestations, the media are prone to the same pettiness and prejudices as the rest of our society. And those prejudices are obvious and are as embedded as deeply in our psyche as braaivleis and sunny skies.
The long and the short of it is that transformation should become more than just another politically correct buzzword; it’s a philosophy we should all embrace – in the media and elsewhere – in order to prevent it from being corrupted and sullied by politicians and others with too much money and power and far too little sense.
-Gershwin Wanneburg is a seasoned journalist and director of TMTV media consultancy

The hurty thirties

When your love goes vagabond

the wind scalding your skin

on a wintry night

peeking into windows

onto forbidding, unwelcoming fires

on some distant street

The God of the Gays

You could see the little boy he was. Once was. There was a tenderness where the wounds had been. And now, as a grown man, he shielded it with layers of muscle, making sure that his body was strong and hefty.
But he was the same boy whose mother had left him with strangers while she nurtured some more convenient dream.
(“I’m doing this for you,” she would say each time she left him. “I’m doing this so one day you will be free. I’m not abandoning you. I love you.”)
He never understood. Aunts, uncles, neighbours. They would tell him all the time how clever he was. But he never understood. Never understood. And he never lost that sense of being an outcast. More than unwanted – extraneous. Like nobody had given birth to him. Like he was dropped by some alien force onto this otherwordly planet. He would often stare at her picture and marvel at how beautiful she was. There was no way he could be hers. It was impossible.
He had always loved girls, their softness, their elegance, the luxury of all the fuss that accompanied their being: the effort of their dress, their hair, their make-up.
As a young man he even enjoyed the care he had to take when a woman was menstruating; the fact that he had to choose his words so carefully and judge with thoughtfulness and precision when to approach her and when to leave her alone. When to coo.
But with boys he found the greatest intimacy. They brought out a tenderness in him that he could neither predict nor halt. It flowed from him so naturally. It flowed from him like charm.
A university friend was the first boy to make him aware of this untapped chamber of emotion.
They were rugby teammates. Both boys enjoyed the sport immensely but took it less seriously than the other players. They had excelled at the game at school and gave their all on the pitch. But they pursued it more with heart than ambition –  for the sheer gutsy, gladiatorial thrill.
On that score alone, which ran deeply in both boys, they had connected instantly.
Their kinship soon grew beyond sharing triumphs. They became comfortable enough to exchange the inevitable traumas of boyhood. The first time they lost a close friend, the first time his friend’s heart was broken by another boy.
They spoke about his deep sense of isolation as he longed for his mother and the estrangement the other felt after he told his family that he was gay; how they both had cried on their first day of “big school”. They even discussed the sting of having a favourite toy broken by a sullen neighbourhood boy.
They spent nearly every available moment together. When they weren’t in class or home for the holidays, or out on dates… They often shared a bed on nights when they had stayed over too late to study or had partied a little too hard. It became natural on these nights for the boys to embrace one another, even after his friend had told him that he was gay.
It never went beyond that, until one night of excess when he awoke to a wet sensation between his thighs. He reached down and felt his friend’s head and pulled him to the top of the bed.
“What the hell are you doing?”
“I’m sorry,” he said and suddenly started crying.
He pulled him to his chest and let him rest in the nook of his neck. Every now and again he would kiss him gently, then return his face to the nest between his cheek and collar bone. They lay like that all night.
That was the extent of their physical affection. But they largely continued as they had before and rarely attended a social event without the other, arm in arm or hand in hand, fingers intertwined.
Sometimes they might enter a party together but leave separately with their respective companions. He was also sure, though, to keep a watchful eye on his friend in order to make sure that he was in good company.
Except for the occasional stare or sneer, their closeness became inevitable and accepted.
****************************************
He was like the landscape, a great expanse of lush fields and hills – stark and sweeping in its beauty.
He needed that kind of largesse. His lungs opened up and his spirit soared. He could write poetry and songs there. Uninterrupted by the clutter of the city, which seemed to thrive on or despite the ashes of dreams. Hopes flung like the mine dumps that haunted the outskirts of the city.
Unlike the mountains where he was from, who towered anciently. These artificial man-made heaps squatted like dreary, despairing onlookers from the sidelines of highways.
No, he preferred the place of his grandfather. Grandfathers. The place where grown-ups spoke Afrikaans in serious tones. English was reserved for the children. Unless they were to be reprimanded. Nothing smacked like the tongue of an adult in that language.
“Jou moerskond!”
Yet he couldn’t live in the country either. He was raised to seek his fortune elsewhere. To become educated and find a nice respectable job in the city, something his parents could boast about to the neighbours.
He lived to make them proud, to be the topic of their grinning conversations at family gatherings from which he was largely absent. To be the source of postcards and new appliances they could display – symbols of how well they had done to produce a city son who could shower them with material comfort.

Home was merely a retreat from the city and its squalor. He avoided the crowded bars and clubs as much as possible and preferred intimate gatherings at the homes of the few friends he had made after living in Joburg for a few years.

At one of these get-togethers he met a transgender woman called Lucky. Her uniform consisted of dungarees – long, short, denim, corduroys – together with a set of startlingly blonde braids that fell down to her behind. Equally standard was her response to some outrageous story about a mutual friend or acquaintance.
“Girl, who made the gays?” Lucky would exclaim in her approximation of a black American accent, an affectation she’d picked up from TV shows like Real Housewives of Atlanta. She would slap her thigh and let out an ear-shattering cackle as she revelled in her own wit and that of the storyteller.
**********************
I was the son my father never wanted and the daughter my mother never had.
My father denied me. And then he had the bad taste to die before I could resent him.
I was gripped by the glowing, muscular bodies parading on the pages of Gay SA – and just about to grip myself – when I received the news of his death.
“Son, son, open up!”
Her tone immediately shook me from my indulgent stupour. It sounded serious. It had to be for her to disturb me in my sanctuary, where I had been hiding from the world for several weeks, only allowing the occasional inspection by our housekeeper to clear the room of the detritus of food and dirty laundry.
“Your father is dead,” she said.
“Ok,” I replied.
A deep frown pleated my mother’s forehead. I could tell that a more pained reaction was warranted on my part.
“What happened?” I asked, both because I was genuinely curious but also because I couldn’t register any emotion, not even enough to feign sadness.
My mother had stood in where my father had failed. Every bit of me that my father had abandoned, my mother lapped up with glee. She was majestic and I never felt my father’s absence as a child, except for an endless curiosity about who he was. It wasn’t all-consuming or consistent but it would sneak up on me now and then.
Men, as a result, were always the enemy. Only when I was older did I realise that. Don’t get me wrong. I loved them. Loved them intensely and all too frequently. I was fascinated by their power, their elusiveness and their beauty that seemed to pulse off the skin.
But the fascination could never be consummated. That is to say, until I was nearly a middle-aged man. Men would remain nothing more than museum pieces to me, glassed behind a cage of aloofness and unattainability. I moved between those emotions and a dire need for their recognition, for their embrace. Just once. Just one of them.